Tsiknopempti, Rebels and Zakynthos

Today we will be flying to the Island of Zakynthos for a meeting.

The meeting is rather uninteresting to me, but the promise of discovering  a new Greek island, sounds too sweet.

Our flight departure is at 10 am with Olympic Air 'ways' (the 'ways' was cut when sold).

I am looking forward to this experience, as OA has recently been purchased (a state owned company it was up to its wings in dark clouds of debt) by the ever-buying MARFIN GROUP, a Greek company heavily fueled by the Dubai Dirham. Other notable recent inquiries by MARFIN include Vivartia (food production, 35th in Europe) and Attica (international ferry operator).

Marfin seems to owe a magic sack with an ever-replenishing gold supply.

Or maybe it is a golden donkey, much more appropriate for Greece.

That reminds me of a fairy-tale:

TABLE BE SET, GOLD DONKEY AND CUDGEL OUT OF THE SACK

By the Brothers Grimm

The second son had gone to a miller and had apprenticed himself to him. When his years were over, the master said, "As you have conducted yourself so well, I give you a donkey of a peculiar kind, which neither draws a cart nor carries a sack."

"What good is he then?" asked the young journeyman.

"He spews forth gold," answered the miller. "If you set him on a cloth and say 'Bricklebrit,' the good animal will spew forth gold pieces for you from back and front."

"That is a fine thing," said the journeyman, and thanked the master, and went out into the world. When he had need of gold, he had only to say "Bricklebrit" to his donkey, and it rained gold pieces, and he had nothing to do but pick them off the ground. Wherever he went, the best of everything was good enough for him, and the more expensive the better, for he had always a full purse. When he had looked about the world for some time, he thought, "You must seek out your father. If you go to him with the gold-donkey he will forget his anger, and receive you well."

Can I get a gold-donkey too???

The announcement of Marfin was strong and bold.

"ONASSIS TIMES RETURN TO THE GREEK SKIES..."

I love the sound of that promise, since my last memory of OA include an unpleasant war-painted stewardess with a serious attitude problem, filthy seats, smelly air, loud music, abundance of duck-tape, unusable toilets, uneatable food and a delay without an excuse or explanation.

My promise then: NEVER AGAIN.

But here I am. My promise versus Marfin's promise.

Who will be a winner?

Not that I have much choice. There is no other plane going to Zakynthos. My only other option would be a lengthy sea-journey, in a smokey ferry cabin and some suicidal roads in-between.

So OA it is.

I am also looking forward, to the newly designed uniforms. It was time for a change, as the old ensembles looked as tired as the planes. Interested myself in Airline fashion (I may be a uniform fetishist), I had even tried to participate in the online competition for the new crew outfits.

But,

I got rejected.

NO FASHIN DEGREE, was my answer.

As if one needs a degree for fashion.

You either have it or you don't. (or so i think)

So the winner of the "Fashion in the Greek skies" was famous Celia Kritharioti.

Renowned in Greek society for her sparkling evening gowns, she is also the designer of choice for the sweetest and most important moment of a woman's (GREECE) life:

THE ...

I had followed the competition with great anticipation, but was surprised to see an unfair gamble, when the 3 finalists where announced, displaying their work online for the public to vote. Only Ceilia showcased the wide collection required, from the summer dress to the winter coat to the rain hat. The other 2 participants had aired just a few ideas, but not the wide range of requested uniforms. I am not sure, but it all smelled like a set deal from the very 1. button!

Not that I mind, as Celia's work is lovely and her fashionable creations are very much in tune with that ONASSIS dream...

ONASSIS in the SKY... here we come...

 I love the blond touch...

Our check in is smooth and looks like I am liking the new OA already.

The girl at the counter is friendly, efficient and helpful. And she SMILES.

We get bused into the NEW plane (or so the advertisement goes) , but I learn, from ever-observing Prince, that the plane is far from new. It is a used one from FLYBE, a UK discount carrier.

Okay, not brand-new, but NEW TO OA.

Figure of speech.

The two flight attendants greet us with warm Smiles* and they look perfectly natural.

I am very impressed.

Good choice of team so far.

We get settled in our not-so-clean seats, with peeling stickers and overused cushion covers.

Time to admire those new uniforms. They look very cute and elegant and remind very much of a bygone area. Onassis seems a perfect match.

But my opinion changes tremendously, when the girls come closer and I see details. The quality is extremely poor and the dresses are sawn badly and hastily. It looks, to be frank, VERY CHEAP. The white line in the middle of the dress is so uneven, that I wonder if the seamstress was drunk or sawing on board a rolling ship. (I did read once about slave ships, where women are used to saw... no taxes at sea... could it be truth?)

Quality seems to be not part of the new OA concept, shame...

Poor Onassis must be turning in his grave now and never mind what detail- Queen Jackie is doing...

We are served water and Cola from plastic cups (not Onassis style either). Glass is Class!

Today, I am lucky enough to have secured a window seat, since Prince has to do some work on his laptop.

I am enjoying this privilege.

The views over the blessed land of Greece are stunning. The country is gifted by nature and it breaks my heart to know, how little is done, to protect this wonders.

Pollution is slowly eating away the god favored land of Hellas and the people have simply taken it for granted.

My hopes are high though, with the new government under George Papandreou. Finally an Environmental Ministry has been created, a huge step into a better future. It is unbelievable to know, that until 2009 there was no such Ministry and the delicate matter of environmental issues was part of the CONSTRUCTION minister.

What this means for a country pregnant with corruption is obvious. One only needs to take a drive in Attika, an area once fabled for its beauty. (only 100 years ago poems were dedicated to AttiKa...)

Crimes have been done, many of them irreversible. 

Time, only time might be able to heal... I do wish so...

We pass rolling hills, lush forests (not all is burned yet) azure waters with tiny freckles of islands, snowcapped mountains, rivers and gorges... and... and... and...

A dream...

A painting...

Paradise?

If Greece really was created by the gods, maybe it is Paradise after all. Or it was?

I take a quick look in the Athens Airport magazine : '2board', an amazingly well designed paper.

Looks like I am heading straight into new troubled waters, when I come across a new Crush-material kind of guy. The last big crush was-is- DAVID ROTSHCHILD. 

Environmental Rebel

JOHN NOLLET.

You don't know him?

Neither did I, till now that is.

hairdresser, Nomad and ambassador for Haute Coiffeur, he is a REBEL FOR BEAUTY.

Hairstylist JOHN NOLLET understands that beauty, like luxury, has no boundaries. The French-born Coiffeur has partnered with two of the biggest brands in itinerant glamour to bring his perfect cuts to women around the world. Throughout 2009, Nollet will spend a week each month in a Park Hyatt hotel suite in one of 10 international cities, where he will perform cuts and colors and create bespoke haute couture hair accessories thanks to his traveling salon, packed into three custom-made Louis Vuitton trunks.

"The idea of 'hair room service' around the world occurred to me" he recalls, "so I called Antoine Arnault and said, 'Antoine, would you ever make a made-to-measure Louis Vuitton trunks for me to do a tour du monde?"

I immediately thought that it was a perfect collaboration for LV, says Arnault, the head of communications of LV and a longtime admirer of Nollet's work. these unique pieces demonstrate our savor-faire while highlighting our core values of tradition and modernity."

REBEL FOR BEAUTY

Such personalized luxury has its price: Nollet's architectural cuts, which take up to two hours and can last for four to six months, cost $1000. Clients can also receive a personalized box of their own: Nollet will ship them a mannequin, wearing their hairstyle complete with personalized styling instructions and all the products they need to create. indeed, bespoke luxury can go to a woman's head... (Vanity Fair)

I will start saving now to get my hair done... once in a life time, should not be missed!

Googling for Nollet I came across an interesting side:

www.luxuryculture.com

Luxurious trend scouts, they even have a small city guide online.

Zakynthos is appearing in my small window frame like a picture perfect postcard. Lush and green, sporting elegant roof-tiled mansions, it looks not Greek at all. More Italian or French, I would say.

I learn from Prince that Zakynthos was once upon a time very much Italian. Ah... there we go...

In 1953 Zakynthos suffered a huge Earthquake, 7.3 Richter-scale, which left just 3 buildings intact.

Wow... the power of Earth.

Zakynthos is also known for its famous Caretta caretta (giant turtles) and a shipwreck beach.

The Caretta Caretta are an endangered species, which lay their eggs on a sandy beach in the South of the Island.

Recent awareness campaigns and the watchful eye of the EU have re-secured the faith of this ancient reptile. I wonder if we will have a chance to go and see them.

Zakynthos' airport is bright and clean yet stinky. Loud music is blasting into my ear and if this wasn't painful enough, the choice of colors used, do the rest.

Driving to the hotel I am again impressed. The roads are squeaky clean, no trash, no building rubble, no illegal garbage mountains in sight. Very rare for Greece.

We pass lush olive groves, healthy lemon and orange orchards heavy with fruit.

Spring is already a guest in Zakynthos and the fields are an explosion of wild gold-blossoms. I take a deep breath and fill my lungs with pure blissful spring air. What a difference of scent compared to polluted Athens. And the blue sky... Athens also was once famous for its blue sky and light. But those days are long gone and the sky these days is a mix of coffee brown with dirty orange.

Pollution, the common enemy of a metropolis. (and if you add no green to counter it...)

Best to live away from a big city, if you can. Work and play in town, but live in the country.

We arrive at the port, the water a deep turquoise, almost  like a Caribbean blue. It is magnificently beautiful and I am already considering to move here for good.

Our hotel is the 4* Phoenix, an ugly square box, sitting above a Cafe. The porter takes us to our domatio (room), which is more like an apartment. 2 bedrooms with cheap furniture, synthetical blankets in baby blue, orange curtains, 2 TV's (wow), grey towels hard as ancient marbles, an empty minibar and a lovely balcony with prime port and village views.

WELCOME

Somewhere I can hear a lot of noise and when I open the balcony door I see giant speakers blasting belly-dancing (or so it sounds) music into the empty village square. ODD!

It's for the celebration today, Prince explains.

Oh, I almost forgot, it is Tsikno-pempti (BBQ-thursday), which means MEAT FEAST for most and NIGHTMARE for Vegetarians. Vegetable lovers be warned. BBQ thursday is best avoided, since there is no ESCAPE from meat today.

Tsikno pempti is celebrated 11 days before clean Monday, which then brings lent and fasting. It is also the beginning of the Carnival season, a time celebrated with great joy in Greece, especially in the port town of Patras. (unless you go for carnival to Patras, don't bother. Patras is a very ugly place)

SOUVLAKI... It has been ages since I last smacked my lis around a juicy skewer. It is not something I can eat often, but once in a blue moon... Today must be blue moon?

Prince pulls me back inside, we have to go.

To my question on what I will do while he talks about machines and who knows what at his meeting, he smiles and promises that it will be very educating and interesting for me too.

I doubt it.

And so... here I am. At the Quay, bored, with the  tempting smell of charcoaled meat invading the privacy rights of my nostrils, dreaming away, when a fat cook strides over, beaming, with an oil dripping Souvlaki in hand.

"OPPPPPPPPPA"

I smile back at him and start pulling the fatty meat blobs into my mouth. Mhhhh.... Yummmmmm and yakkkk, all at once.

My description: Disgustingly delicious, if that makes any sense?

Prince appears out of nowhere, of course, when there is food around...

The fat Cook runs across once again, waving another dripping meat stick. It is a tradition in Zakynthos, to offer free meat on BBQ thursday. What a lovely custom. Prince jokes about the meat used, when for free. Cats, rats, dogs, he grins, while dirty oil is dripping down his sunny smile. I just lost my appetite and hand my Souvlaki over to him. KALI OREXI (enjoy)

Time for lunch anyhow.

We find a small Tavernaki and without any order food starts arriving.

Fava balls, Greek salad, eggplant dip, tzaziki, boiled greens, boiled reds...

We are 5 people, but the starters alone are enough for 10 and this is only the beginning!

Now the oversized meat arrives with an enormous amount of french fries. Goshhhh, those Greeks do eat.

I try my best to savor the pretty tough steak, but 2 bites are all I can manage.

The furry puppy that appears between my legs seems god-send and happily walks of with my steak hanging from his little mouth. GOOD PUPPY. Free meat for everyone today, even the dogs.

The owner-chef-cook-waiter reappears noisily with a giant plate filled with LOUKOMADES.

Now, here is a Greek dessert I can never resists. 

LOUKOMADDDDDDDDDDDESSSSSSSSSS...

Oddly shaped doughnut balls, warm and honey soaked, served with cinnamon and ice cream, they are heavenly temptations. I make them sometimes at home, but for some reason, they always taste better in a Greek Taverna. Must be the setting, the mood, the greek air. Who knows.

I munch down 6 balls, when I am ready to explode or to go for a nice Siesta. But no chance of such idyllic luxuries yet. One more meeting, Prince teases. And chewing down the last honey-soaked ball, I try to smile.

By late afternoon we finally return to our 4* quarters and I am so tired that I crawl into synthetic-land without fear. Too tired to be yucked. Too tired to mind the blasting belly-dance music. Good night*

Prince wakes me gently some time later,whispering in my ear: "We must go. Dinner."

It takes me a minute to realize where I am.

"Dinner? more food? More meat? " I ask sleepily. " Do I have to come? Can I also eat fish?"

He smiles amused. "Yes you can, but it's not polite".

Ohh, I got it. Meat it is.

The couple inviting us is already waiting downstairs. We drive off, into the MEAT FEAST night, my stomach revolting already. No idea on what to expect, the restaurant of choice comes to a real surprise. Cozy and cute, lid by candles and a crackling fireplace, stuffed with traditional furniture and a piano man singing sweet ballads, it could be someone's home. ARESTI, romantic and quiet, I am thrilled. (just to explain, the typical BBQ thursday happens in a raw, loud, low-key tavern, usually resembling a butchers fair, with dead animals dangling from the ceiling, fluorescent lights creating a surreal atmosphere mixed with the smoke and the shouting and drinking...never ever I have left such night unharmed-head and tummy-wise, that is)

But tonight seems to be a different kind of Tsikno pempti, I am delighted.

White linen tablecloth, wine from a bottle, refined cuisine and love-songs, what better way to celebrate?

It is 9 pm and we are the only guests. I ask the waiter and he confirms that we are very early.

The menu looks delicious and I can see the Italian connection.

Yet, I opt for a Schnitzel, neither Italian nor Greek, but hey, its meat. Prince does the same, since he is a Schnitzel connoisseur. Let's see if Aresti can beat the Schnitzel we ate in Hamburg last week?

The table starts filling once again, as if by magic, with the most tempting appetizers. The presentation, in pots and copper pans, is beautiful and mouthwatering and I cannot resists to try everything. (even some strange intestine stuff, which is pretty awful)

The house wine ( a local from Zakynthos) is not very good (undrinkable), so we opt for a 2007 Kir Yianni, a red classic. The Schnitzels, by the way, are divine. Very much up to German standards!

Aresti, we will be back!

When we leave, around 11.30, the crowds just start arriving. How can they keep up, I wonder...

Good night...

PS: Music is still blasting. I am up and it is 3 am! Maybe the Zakynthonians are deaf?

For a lovely dinner in Zakynthos:

ARESTI 

www.aresti.com.gr

Restaurant-Piano bar

Krioneri, Zakynthos 

+30 26950 - 27379


*SMILES
PS: Did you know that a smile is still considered a sign of STUPID in Greece?
People stile ogle at the sunny new American President with dislike, as he smiles way too much.
To be cool and taken serious in greece one must frown as hard as possible. Try it yourself. pull the forehead as much together as possible. There we go. Now take on a stern mean look.
SMART KID!
(luckily there is BOTOX now, as all those frowns will leave you marked... but then... how to frown after BOTOX is still a Mystery unsolved...)